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A great archive in Hawaiian Music is the Huapala.org web site.
They also offer some beautiful Pa`u skirts.


ISLAND MAGIC – Stories, Experiences  and  Observations
Nanakuli, Hawaii

© 2007 - 2008 Gilbert Belmudez

(Note:  Regard this true story as a rough draft.  I am writing it from a few notes and a lot of memory.  If there are some inaccuracies in Hawaiian spelling, geographical description, legend, custom or any other details, feel free to contact me with corrections and opinion.  Critique is more than welcome.)

The Beginning

I was thirty years old when I landed in Hawaii for the very first time on April Fools Day, 1980.  I had no place to stay, no job prospect and knew no one.  I knew little about Hawaii and when I arrived at Honolulu airport I was mesmerized by the beauty and confused with an uncertainty as to what I should do.  My luggage consisted of a full duffle bag and a sleeping bag.

The first thing I did was put on my flip-flops and deposit my boots and duffle bag in an airport locker I rented for two weeks.  This allowed me to travel lightly with just the sleeping bag into which I rolled up the barest of necessities such as toiletries, shorts, a towel, one change of clothing and an old serape I had purchased in Tijuana fourteen years before.  I had no credit cards, no bank account and about two hundred dollars to live on in my pocket.

Eventually finding a bus I went to what I believe was somewhere between Waikiki and Honolulu.  I got off the bus not far from the ocean and wandered around a bit until I came across a small park separated from the beach by a low seawall.  A handful of people were gathered at a picnic bench listening to a guitar player who seemed in no hurry to go anywhere.  I wandered over and listened for a while.  At some point I casually introduced myself and explained how I had just arrived for the first time in Hawaii.  Someone greeted me with an “aloha”.  “Welcome to the islands”. 

It was late in the afternoon and soon the sun was setting.  Everyone I was with wandered away and disappeared.  I sat on the sea wall for a while as night time settled in and looked out to the dark ocean waters.  I was worried about what I would do as exhaustion began to take over.  There was a bush close by that formed a canopy of sorts over a small space I found I could squeezed into.  Enough so that I was sure no one would spot me as I dozed off huddled under my Mexican blanket.

I could glamorize my first night on the islands by saying all went well but the truth is I was miserable.  The rain moved in and even with my poncho on I was soon soaked.  It was hard to sleep and silent tears rolled down my face as I lay there wondering what I had done.  “How stupid of me” I thought.  Here I was suffering and wet when I could have stayed in California and at this very moment been relaxing on a dry couch and watching TV.  Instead, I had put myself in a ridiculous situation and never felt so lonely in my whole life. 

*          *          *

The next morning brought welcomed sunshine and in no time I was using the seawall to spread my wet items and get them dry.  I sat on the sand and watched as people began to arrive on the beach.  A local woman, maybe about forty years of age, sat nearby.  She wore sort of a sundress with Hawaiian patterns.  Her skin was bronze in color and her hair, perhaps once dark, had a bleached color that was a mixture of reddish hues and streaks of dark blond.  The woman noticed me tending my things drying on the seawall and began a friendly conversation with me.  She spoke in a local accent and knew immediately that I was not familiar with Hawaii.  When you are alone like I was and starting anew, you take your chances with people you don't know and I was no different as I began to confess to her how I was clueless and didn’t know what to do or where to go.

She spoke slow enough for me to understand and pointed out that I could catch a certain bus a few blocks away which would take me out of the city.  “Go to Nanakuli”, she said.  “Just tell the bus driver to let you off in Nanakuli and there you will see a nice white beach where you could probably stay for a few days.  After that, you’ll figure things out.”

I’ve got to take a moment to explain something here.  Anyone who knew Oahu then, and I’m assuming not much has changed on this subject since, will tell you that sleeping on the beach in Nanakuli is not at all a very good idea.  First, it is against the law and second, the people there would not take kindly to someone trying to camp where there is no designated camping area.  Remember, I was naïve and to me, the woman’s suggestion seemed better than nothing so I did as she instructed me and soon found myself on a bus headed in that direction.  When I later told this story to locals whom I got to know the only explanation they could give me was that I was blessed with kokua.  “Good fortune”.  Some have even suggested that the Hawaiian woman I had met was the spirit of Pele.  Especially because her hair symbolized the colors of fire and because for the next week I spent at Nanakuli beach I felt nothing but aloha from the local residents.  Under the circumstances they would have had every right to tell me to move on.  I now realize how fortunate I was to be accepted.

*          *          *

The bus stop was where the woman had directed me to.  I was soon headed out of the Honolulu area.  I figure that if I had started out from the King Street area the entire trip was about 27 miles and by bus lasted close to an hour.  Frankly, I was exhausted from the worry and stress of knowing nothing about my future and it was a relief to rest a spell as the bus went along its scheduled route.  We went past Pearl City and the Pearl Harbor area as we continued along the coast.  I did start noticing there were less buildings and people along the way and to play it safe, I asked the driver to let me know when we arrived at my destination.  He smiled and said, “No problem”.

I just started to doze off when I heard the driver announce “Nanakuli!” and came to a stop.  There were a few buildings where I got off but not much activity.  A small convenience grocery store was where I had gotten off the bus there was a used furniture store nearby.  About 200 yards away was a local post office.  All of this was on the mountain or Pali side of the only road ( Farrington Highway) that passed through the area.  Directly behind was a fairly good size community of homes.  Beyond and further inward was square mile after square mile of sugar cane.  Across the street was Nanakuli Park, an expansive white sand beach with picnic benches and a public restroom.  It stretched at least about ¾ of mile.

I stepped into the convenience store and bought some food to satisfy my hunger and also save for later.  Then I crossed the road and settled on the sand at the edge of the park area.  It was beautiful and the sound of the waves was therapeutic.  The horizon is expansive there and aside from a few clouds you could see clearly and what seemed for miles.  I didn’t know how lucky I was because the rain that had soaked me the night before was the last of a storm that had finally passed through and the days I would spend in that area would be without rain.

My entire stay at Nanakuli was to be about a week, from Wednesday, April 2 to Wednesday, April 9.  I know that local people wondered who I was and what I was about.  Some of the younger men came by to relax at the beach after what I figure was a hard day at work.  They greeted me with curiosity and it was difficult for me to understand the accent of Hawaiian pidgin.  As a Chicano from California and because of my racial mixture I could have passed as a part of the racial diversity in Hawaii but for my naivety and the obvious west coast accent.  When they realized I was not from the islands they spoke slower and more distinctly so I could understand them.

I found out that there is a large community of indigenous Hawaiians living in Nanakuli and to me even then, this became special.  In return, I treated the area with a strong respect and although my visit was obvious, I did not do anything to bring more than the average attention to myself.  In return, my stay was respected.  The days were quiet and full of self analysis and the nights were spent peacefully huddled in my sleeping bag.  At one point I realized the keys I carried with me were a useless reminder of past possessions and I unceremoniously tossed them into the sea.  They were a weight worth discarding and a part of a subtle change I was beginning to go through.

Each evening the same young men who I originally met would come by and visit as the sun set in the horizon.  We would talk a while and then they would leave for their respective homes.  When Friday came along they invited me to go with them to a local bar that had live music.  Sort of Portuguese music, if I recall correctly.  The next night I went to see a movie with them at a drive-in theater.  Sunday came along and it hadn’t dawned on me what day it was until the park began to fill with families celebrating what became my first and most memorable Easter in Hawaii.

I was sitting alone trying to enjoy the beauty of everything that was happening around me when a little girl came up and timidly invited me to take part in the Easter banquet her family had prepared.  I was thrown off and a bit embarrassed but her smiling mother and father settled my nervousness with a warm welcome of aloha.  It became my first luau.

*              *              *

I knew that I had to make a move and get on with life.  A couple of days after Easter I mentioned this to my regular evening visitors and they agreed, sort of hinting that it was time to move on.  Several of them mentioned that Maui was a good idea.  I was thirty years old and they said there were a lot more people on Maui who were my age or younger.  I would get along well and there was plenty of work.  Two of my friends had been working construction and told me that until recently they had were flown back and forth between Maui and Oahu in order to work on the new hotels that were being constructed at an area known as Kaanapali.  They offered to give me a ride to Honolulu Airport and I accepted.

First, they waited as I picked up what I left in the airport locker a week before and then took me to the entrance of an inter-island airline they always used when going to Maui, Royal Hawaiian Airlines.  I liked the idea because at that time the fare was cheaper.  If I recall correctly a one way ticket was about $35.00.  I got off their car and we shook hands.  Before they left one of them turned to me and said, “Remember.  From now on if someone asks where you come from bruddah, you tell them from Nanakuli, Valley of the Giants.”   Comments

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